Here’s how we clean windows the right way at Window Wizards!
Every job is different and may need some tweaks, but we have a general process that we follow to ensure a fantastic result for all of our customers. If you want to learn more about how we work, or you want to learn how to clean windows yourself, give this guide a look!
Tools and Equipment We Use:
- Ladders – In order to clean windows, you have to be able to reach them! A variety of ladders may be necessary depending on the job. A small stepladder is great for first story windows that are just out of reach, and a multi position or extension ladder that can reach 22-24ft will allow access for most second story windows. Ladder standoffs are a great addition to provide more clearance when cleaning second story windows, and leg levelers allow for a much safer working environment when on uneven ground.
- Buckets and Soap – A large rectangular bucket that allows you to dip your mop in evenly works best. You’ll also see window cleaners with a bucket on a belt to store their mop and squeegee while working – for this we like the Unger Ninja Bucket on a Belt. For soap, there are endless options. Regular Dawn dish soap is a great starting point and what many professionals use solely with great results; we also like to use some additives that help with evaporation time and deliver a little bit of extra sparkle on the windows at the end. These are Titan Glass Gleam 4 and Cliche Chemicals Hi-Slide. Certain situations, such as hard water stain removal, may require additional chemicals and for that we use Diamond Magic Stain Remover.
- Mop and Squeegee – Necessities! A good squeegee and mop are a worthwhile investment. Ettore, Unger and Moerman are all great brands. We use the Unger Ninja Mop along with the Unger Ninja Squeegee, as well as the Moerman Excelerator 2.0 Squeegee. The squeegee rubbers wear out and are replaceable; we like the Ettore Master squeegee rubber and the Unger green rubber.
- Scrubbing Tools – Windows that have a lot of build up or stubborn marks can require a little extra elbow grease, and we have a variety of abrasives that we can use depending on the situation. Xero white scrub pads, walnut scrub pads, #0000 steel wool (it must be #0000!) and Magic Erasers can all be great options. A razor for scraping the most stubborn marks can be helpful, but these are after other options are exhausted. A razor itself does not scratch glass when used correctly, but debris on the glass can be pushed by the razor and result in scratches. Tempered glass for example, if not washed properly by the manufacturer, can have glass particles sealed on its face which may result in scratching if a razor is used. This is why we tend to avoid razors, and if we do, test a small area first and inform the customer of its use and risks prior to beginning. Before using any of these, it is important to verify whether the window has tint or a low e coating on top.
- Towels – Towels are a necessity for many purposes! Large bath towels to put on the ground when inside to protect surfaces against drips, and quality microfiber towels for detail work (such as the NICE Fish Scale Towel).
- Additional Items – Screen removals tools for removing screens without damaging them (a rigid putty knife also works), a brush for cleaning cobwebs, window tracks and screens, and a tool belt for holding everything.
Now Let’s Really Get Started!
Prep:
- Soap – Fill your bucket up with some clean water and then mix in your soap. A standard mix with Dawn is a 5 second pour per 3 gallons of water. We add in a capful of Titan Glass Gleam 4 and 2tsp/gal of the Cliche Chemicals Hi-Slide.
- Screens – We like to go around the project and remove the screens first; If they’re clean, you can brush them off and set them to the side. If they need to be washed, you can mop and scrub them with your brush, tap them to remove most of the water and set them to the side to dry. Doing this first ensures you won’t be putting a wet screen on and getting water spots on your freshly cleaned window!
- As you’re going around, note whether the windows are tinted, tempered, or have a low e coating on them.
- For tinted windows, they can either come factory tinted or a tinted film is applied afterward. Factory tinted windows have the tint embedded into the glass, and can be cleaned like normal. Aftermarket tint is a window film that is applied to the glass. Film is usually applied on the inside and you can tell it is there by looking at the edges – you’ll be able to see where the film stops at the edge of the window. For aftermarket tinted windows, we avoid using any abrasives on the film side.
- Tempered windows are in nearly all commercial buildings and can be present in homes too, especially in glass doors/sliders and entryway windows. There has been an issue with cleaning tempered windows that has to do with what is called fabricating debris: in short, glass dust particles are supposed to be washed off during the tempering process, but not all manufacturers do a great job with this. This leads to these dust particles being embedded to the glass during the heat treating process. If you use a razor blade on a window that has this, it may scratch – not because of the razor itself, but because of the glass particles that drag across the glass during use. Abrasives such as 0000 steel wool, walnut pads, and magic erasers should be okay to use on tempered glass, but it’s always a good idea to test a small area first. We usually go with something less aggressive than steel wool as to not take a chance with our customer’s windows.
- Low e windows are windows that have a thin metallic coating applied to them in order to help with energy efficiency. In the past, these were always applied on the side of the glass that was in the space between two panes, so it was not possible to damage. However, coatings on exposed sides of the glass are beginning to appear because they can work even better on those sides of the glass. In hotter climates, it can be on the exterior side of the outside-facing pane, and in colder climates, the interior side of the interior-facing window. Glass with a low e coating on an exposed side is not fun to clean. It can seem like you got a fingerprint or smudge off, but the light will hit at a different angle and you’ll still be able to see it. You also have to be careful not to damage the coating – using nothing more than your mop to clean them. Do not let any metal contact the glass, as the coating is actually harder than the object, and the metal from the squeegee, jewelry, etc. will leave a grayish mark on the window than can be difficult to take off without damaging the window. In summary, it’s best to take your time with these windows, and consider the risk vs reward of trying to completely remove a smudge vs making the window look worse from marking up the coating.
Cleaning:
- You can start inside or outside – we like to start inside when our clothes and equipment are clean/dry to reduce the risk of getting anything inside dirty.
- It’s a good idea to look at each window before soaping it up to see if there’s any marks that will need further attention. If the windows are fairly clean already (i.e. just some dust) you may realize the mop gets everything just fine and you won’t need to use an abrasive on every window.
- Soap up your window with the mop, ensuring the get into the corners. Use steady pressure and go over each area a couple times.
- As mentioned before, you may be able to skip using abrasives on some windows . For those with debris that seems more “stuck on,” you can use an abrasive, for example a walnut pad (Again, not on the film side of aftermarket tint or exposed low e coatings). After soaping up the window with the mop, use steady pressure and go over the window. Circular motions are good if you are holding the abrasive in your hand, making sure to go over the area a couple times and getting into the corners.
- If the abrasive removed too much solution from the window, you can mop it again if needed to give the squeegee a better glide.
- If your window frames are very dirty, now is a good time to clean them off with a rag so you do not get dirty water drips onto your freshly cleaned windows.
- Now it’s time to squeegee! There are many ways to squeegee – vertical straight pulls, horizontal straight pulls, and all kinds of fanning methods. Use whatever you feel most comfortable with, but the fanning method tends to work the best to avoid leaving streaks. It can take some time to get used to however, and the straight pull methods still work great and you can pretty easily clean up any streaks left behind. Here is a good video on an introduction to fanning if you are interested. The linked channel is a great resource in general, I have learned a lot from Steve.
- The important part of squeegeeing is to not use too much pressure and to keep the squeegee at the correct angle – it depends on the squeegee but a general guideline is to keep your hand about three inches from the glass while squeegeeing.
- Almost done! Grab a rag and go around the window frame and sill to clean off the frame and remove any water still there. You’ll also notice that your squeegee won’t get all of the water on the edges of the window against the frame. Take your detail towel (something lint free) and run it along the edge of the window to remove the rest of the solution from the window. If you see any debris or streaks left behind on the window, you can use your towel to get anything remaining. For things more stubborn, you can use dry steel wool, a damp magic eraser (wipe your towel over the area after) or your fingernail to get anything left behind. You’re done!
That’s it! Thank you so much for reading and I hope you found this helpful!